View Full Version : my bike is really slow :(
cpt.monkeybutt
11-03-2004, 10:40 PM
ok after installing a 668 carb, rocket key and ada reed valve my bike will only go 20mph... im pissed. i played with the carb hella lean hella rich and everywhere in between and i still cant get it to go faster. it just wont rev high. might i have installed the timing advancer backwards and retarded my timing? or im a just no good at tuning the carb?
cpt.monkeybutt
11-03-2004, 10:56 PM
oh yea i just remebered. i have some crapy champion spark plug. i have no idea how much a diferance that would make, i doubt it would make a bike feel like a complete turd cause its runing clean just not makeing much power. but anyway any suggestions would be helpfull.
SRT4_in_LI_NY
11-06-2004, 05:42 AM
Spark plug will make a hella difference. I had a "chimp"-ion plug and when I picked up the NGK plug I was very pleased. Also make sure the rocket Key has the upper shifted to the right as you look at it. I had bad luck with mine as I sheared off three of them. Hope this helps
JBonnardel
11-08-2004, 06:55 AM
Also make sure the rocket Key has the upper shifted to the right as you look at it. I had bad luck with mine as I sheared off three of them. Hope this helps
WHAT?
Wrong !
On the X1, (and all the other similar motors) the rocket key has a 'leading edge' that faces FORWARD IN ROTATION of the crank. So, when looking at it from the magneto side, the motor rotates COUNTER CLOCKWISE therefore your leading edge should point LEFT if the keyway is at 12:00. Pointing towards the exhaust.
SRT4_in_LI_NY
11-08-2004, 12:52 PM
WHAT?
Wrong !
On the X1, (and all the other similar motors) the rocket key has a 'leading edge' that faces FORWARD IN ROTATION of the crank. So, when looking at it from the magneto side, the motor rotates COUNTER CLOCKWISE therefore your leading edge should point LEFT if the keyway is at 12:00. Pointing towards the exhaust.
Ha Ha, maybe thats why mine have been breaking. I just got another one so I will try it tonight
Freddie
11-09-2004, 08:42 PM
Timing keys just did last on any of our bikes. They all sheered off and made the bikes hell to start and run. Could very well be the problem...
JBonnardel
11-10-2004, 07:01 AM
Freddie, that sounds like an installation problem.
There is no stress on that key, its just a positioning woodruffkey. If you are shearing them off, you are not putting them in correctly.
Hmm, i doubt a rocket key would have the effect of reducing rpm to such a point that the engine could only pull 20mph. **don't slap on all the mods on in one hit** How many times do we see that written in every forum, tech page, toilet wall ect ect. Put the carb on, tune it, put the key on, tune it ect ect. Probably the best thing now is, put stock key in, try it, put the stock carb on try it ect ect. Maybe that key is the ADA 50 degree prototype? or maybe the loctite used on the reeds have glued them shut, you can't tell what's going on with one item if you installed a whole bunch of mods at once.
freddie + zameil, i drink water for breakfast, aircooled forever man :)
[subliminal message to ada-techs: nice work on the reed cage, now we want 44mm domes and full circle stroker cranks]
Freddie
11-10-2004, 06:47 PM
Freddie, that sounds like an installation problem.
There is no stress on that key, its just a positioning woodruffkey. If you are shearing them off, you are not putting them in correctly.
Sorry, but install was not the problem. :nono
Every single key that I know of that was fitted has sheered off, so it's not just our two bikes. And before you ask, it was our local ADA dealer that was having the problems too. :confused:
I think i mentioned this before, the key is not actually there to drive the flywheel, it's only purpose is to position the flywheel, the tapers lock the flywheel onto the crank (think morse tapers). If for some reason the key is breaking you should probably make sure there are no high spots on the tapers, also check if key is not made too high, some bearing blue would help find any highspots. After you got rid of the high spots then lap the tapers together with some fine, aluminium grade lapping compound (aka toothpaste), then put it together with loctite and torque the bolt down. If it breaks the key after that then you should probably re-check flywheel balance and crank trueness.
ridingdeath
11-12-2004, 10:09 PM
on my minichopper I put in rocket key, juice box, stalker large cc muffler(had to oval out holes abit to fit it), 603 carb, juice box, air filter, and direct hits hp ignition. I put it in all at once, and set carb to 1 and 1/4 out each low and high, and it started on second pull. Just take time when putting in parts, and double check everything, but you don't have to add one part and tune between each one. If I did one part at a time with my cars, I would never get them done.
Ok, so *IF* on the second pull it ran like a complete pig what part would you suspect? do you see what i'm getting at?
ridingdeath
11-13-2004, 03:01 PM
I wasn't try to offend. I do get your point, I'm just saying that my experience with motors has been to just be careful and double check everything the first time when putting it in, then you don't have to install one at a time. The first thing I would check if it ran crappy after installing everything, would be for an air leak probebly if I couldn't get it tuned right.
It's cool man, i'm not offended and i hope i haven't offended you. If you can bolt it all on and getting running in one hit then good on ya. I find it's like playing russian roulette 5 times out of 6 it's all great, 1 time out of 6 it's a pain in the head :D
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