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Go Ped ESR controller details

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  • Go Ped ESR controller details

    Not sure if anyone else plays around with their controller. Here are some of the parts on the board:

    PIC16F88, MM74HC14 (inverter for throttle and charging), MC1413D (drives current for relay/throttle), Power pieces (MJD127/122, IFR9024, MC34063A, MMBZ5221B) and IFR3205 main fett motor drivers.
    Unknown AMI micro-controller that seems to be the brains. Anyone know the datasheet or PN for this? (ON Semi bought AMI)

    Transistors on the board are generic PNP or NPN 600mA SOT23. Most diodes are 600mV forward voltage, saturation .42 micro Amp. Likely safe to use anything at or north of 40V tolerance for other resistors, capacitors and such.
    Last edited by ESR_RSE; 03-12-2019, 01:34 PM.

  • #2
    GO-PED BATERY INDICATOR:
    Stage 3 = Red+Yellow+Green
    Stage 2 = Red+ Yellow
    Stage 1 = Red Blinking

    Supply (V) / Stage
    27.3 / 3
    23.1 / 3
    23 / 2
    22.9 / 2
    22.77 / 2
    22.5 / 2
    22 / 2
    21 / 2
    20.9 / 1
    20.5 / 1
    20 / 1
    Last edited by ESR_RSE; 10-24-2019, 11:32 AM.

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    • #3
      The Go Ped controller is CS1115 but not listed online.

      Closest thing to a spec and pdf:
      https://www.controls.com/products/cs1108/
      Last edited by ESR_RSE; 02-26-2020, 10:17 PM.

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      • #4
        Motor details

        Silver: McMillan Electric model 3657
        Dual brush card
        Free RPM 4825
        -Note springs and card will melt at high current
        -Spins 28% faster than the black case so geared lower than black motor @ 13/75 stock

        Black high torque: Allied Motion, Stature Electric, Inc. model 5075-055
        Quad brush card
        Free RPM 3750
        -Note brush pair placed across from each other, not next to each other in card
        -Original gearing was 15/76
        Last edited by ESR_RSE; 12-03-2019, 10:40 AM.

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        • #5
          That's some awesome info, I was wondering if someone would come along and be smart enough to dig into these. The controller is programmed by the 4 pin connector near the throttle wires. You need a $300 "Goprammer" but I'm trying to find out if I can talk to it directly and see if I can reverse engineer the programming to make a way cheaper way to talk to the board.
          Also, I noticed it has a hard Highvoltage cutoff around 30v that would be awesome to bypass. 8S lipo would be easy to do if that's the case.

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          • #6
            Yeah I have some info in another forum about the high voltage cutoff. There is a set of resistors creating a voltage divider that eventually feeds into the PIC controller that appears to be the proper spot to adjust. They would be R31 and R33 but not done the bench testing with scope to confirm yet.
            Last edited by ESR_RSE; 12-03-2019, 10:44 AM.

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            • #7
              I've done some repair work on the 24v charger too. Go Ped upped pricing to $180 so might just make more sense to get an external charger.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ESR_RSE View Post
                Motor details

                Silver: McMillan Electric model 3657
                Dual brush card
                Free RPM 4825
                -Note springs and card will melt at high current
                -Spins 28% faster than the black case so geared lower than black motor @ 13/75 stock

                Black high torque: Allied Motion, Stature Electric, Inc. model 5075-055
                Quad brush card
                Free RPM 3750
                -Note brush pair placed across from each other, not next to each other in card
                -Original gearing was 15/76
                Thanks! Informative explanation

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                • #9
                  Interestingly enough one of the "older" gen3 design controllers took an input from a thermresistor that was glued inside the case of the black motor. No clue is there was actual programming inside that would monitor and cut off the motor when it got too hot. Kind of a bummer that did not continue into the later designs if that was really the case. Seems riding big hills on the stock motor being heavy can potentially melt the silver case brush springs. (very very thin) I have not melted a black brush card before.

                  I haven't replaced the brushes on a black case motor before but seems we should be able to identify off the shelf ones to drop in, as long as the plastic "cage" is not damaged. I actually prefer the black case motors as long as the bushings (on the shaft) in it are not too worn. Silver case uses bearings so they behave nicer at top speed but seem to be missing the fun acceleration.

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