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Issues staying running

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  • Issues staying running

    Hello,

    I'm new here. I just picked up a mess.....I got a goped sport for free from someone, it has the GL23H on it, and it's actually really nice and easy to work on. Anyway I decided hey, it's 2 stroke, they are easy to get running again, little did I know how much of a mess this thing is. I'm an engine guy, but mostly 4 stroke engines. I got it and started checking for the required things to make it run, spark, fuel, compression. So the first thing I noticed is that it looked like he had taken the head off of it because it was still loose. So I pulled it off, checked out everything, looked pretty good, so I put it back together (the cylinder gasket looked newish so I didn't change it). Tightened everything down and noticed that the coil was hitting the flywheel. So I adjusted that to spec and turned it over, no spark. Changed the coil, spark problem solved. While I was at it I changed the spark plug to the correct one. The one he has in there was a little longer than the stock one. Didn't notice any marks on the piston and the electrode was still perfect, so I dont think it was hitting. Compression seems fine. I mean I think they are only like 7 or 7.5:1 so that isn't very much, typical 2 stroke low compression. Then I moved to the fuel, The carb didn't look old, and it had some kind of aftermarket filter and velocity stack thing on there. But I noticed, that the carb was upside down, the primer bulb was on the top. I tried to turn it around, and it hit the case, because the insulator was too short. So I ordered an insulator and gaskets. Then the carb would not prime. I suspect that he took it apart and a gasket didn't fare too well, so I ordered a carb kit for it and just replaced it. Not worth fooling with it when stock carbs are cheap. So I have all of the required things to make it run. Would not pull start at all. Not even try. so I pushed it down the driveway, opened the throttle all the way, and it did fire, but it would not stay running for long, and I had to keep the throttle wide open for it to even spit and sputter like it was trying to run but couldn't for some reason. Could the cylinder gasket be causing that issue? or the exhaust gasket maybe? I know on 2 strokes the exhaust gasket is super important. I'm just trying to figure out where to go from here. Should I just order a whole top end kit and just rebuild the top? I'm at a loss at this point. Like I said I havn't worked on many 2 strokes in my life, but I am a mechanical motor guy. I tried messing with the single mixture screw on the carb, but it made no difference so I set it back to how it came from the factory.

    Thanks in advance
    Eric

  • #2
    There is a lot of information there! Hard to help to honest. what fuel mixture are you running? I run 40 to 1. I have an LH that was finicky when i first got it. The original carb on the LH, the bulb was on the bottom. I swapped it for a 668 and the bulb is on the top. In my opinion most of the problems come down to air and fuel. An aftermarket air filter will require more fuel. Sounds like you might not be getting enough, since you have to hold the accelerator down. Does it start or try to start with the choke on?

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    • #3
      I'm running 40:1, everything with the exception of the air filter appears to be stock parts, so I just replaced the carb with a stock one. It looks like the previous owner may have removed the choke plate, because it is not there. it could very well be not getting enough fuel. There is only one screw on this carb. I'm assuming it's a mixture screw. It came out of the box 2 1/2 turns out. I've tried turning it up and down and it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I went all the way to 3 turns out and it still acted the same. I live in Florida, chokes are not really necessary here, takes an extra second to start, but the choke on engines here need to be turned off almost immediatly after starting. So damn hot here
      Last edited by toyotakzrider; 10-17-2020, 10:58 AM.

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      • #4
        Where at in Florida, I’m in Pensacola. I use choke everytime I start either of my peds.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JLRod View Post
          Where at in Florida, I’m in Pensacola. I use choke everytime I start either of my peds.
          I think it depends on the type of engine and starting method. On the old school push start stuff I hardly ever use a choke. But with the same engine on a pull start Goped, I’d use a choke every time. It also really depends on your fuel mixture/carb. I’ve had g23lh’s that absolutely need chokes to get running in a reasonable amount of time. But other near identical setups that don’t need a choke at all. The bigger stuff usually always needs a choke with exception of g43Ls which are again hit and miss.

          regarding the issue, you need to Check your pulse hole. Make sure it lines up. If pulse hole is lined up, there are no air leaks, and motor looks alright, you are getting spark, you need a new carb.
          Last edited by dsport; 10-18-2020, 07:31 PM.
          *******Pedding since '02********

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dsport View Post

            I think it depends on the type of engine and starting method. On the old school push start stuff I hardly ever use a choke. But with the same engine on a pull start Goped, I’d use a choke every time. It also really depends on your fuel mixture/carb. I’ve had g23lh’s that absolutely need chokes to get running in a reasonable amount of time. But other near identical setups that don’t need a choke at all. The bigger stuff usually always needs a choke with exception of g43Ls which are again hit and miss.

            regarding the issue, you need to Check your pulse hole. Make sure it lines up. If pulse hole is lined up, there are no air leaks, and motor looks alright, you are getting spark, you need a new carb.
            Where is the pulse hole? I see a hole in the new carb insulator, that goes into the block. There is also a little tiny hole on the carb that doesn't line up with anything, no matter the orientation. Also, it is a new carb.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by toyotakzrider View Post

              Where is the pulse hole? I see a hole in the new carb insulator, that goes into the block. There is also a little tiny hole on the carb that doesn't line up with anything, no matter the orientation. Also, it is a new carb.
              it’s a small hole about .06” in diameter. Next to the main carb bore hole and only on one side (facing the engine). It should be oriented on the bottom. if the hole doesn’t line up, you have the incorrect plastic manifold.

              that hole is responsible for communicating to the carb when your engine needs fuel. It works the pumper diaphragm in the carb. Your motor will barely run without that hole lined up, and it can cause severe damage to your engine.
              *******Pedding since '02********

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              • #8
                Originally posted by toyotakzrider View Post
                I'm running 40:1, everything with the exception of the air filter appears to be stock parts, so I just replaced the carb with a stock one. It looks like the previous owner may have removed the choke plate, because it is not there. it could very well be not getting enough fuel. There is only one screw on this carb. I'm assuming it's a mixture screw. It came out of the box 2 1/2 turns out. I've tried turning it up and down and it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I went all the way to 3 turns out and it still acted the same. I live in Florida, chokes are not really necessary here, takes an extra second to start, but the choke on engines here need to be turned off almost immediatly after starting. So damn hot here

                Wait a second....

                Stock carb, 2.5 turns out? This should not go in one sentence. The stock carb is not adjustable, unless you have an adjustable one. But 2.5 turns out sounds like a butterfly style carb. Stock carb is a barrel carb. The manifolds required for the two are different.

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