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GSR46R rebuild help - Warning: Pic Heavy!

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  • GSR46R rebuild help - Warning: Pic Heavy!

    Rebuilding my GSR46R with GP460 previously purchased from Derek Short. It hasn't been ridden in awhile and I'm hoping to get some help figuring out what needs to be replaced before I make an order from DDM. Money is an issue so I'm trying to keep extraneous costs at a minimum while still doing this right (e.g. preserving performance, making worthwhile upgrades, preventative maintenance).

    I have 4 more engines to rebuild after this one (GSR40tsi x 2, GSR40, and X-ped) and I'm hoping I can learn what I need to look for, but for now I need to post photos so folks can see what I'm working with.

    Picasa Web Album for additional images not listed below



    What headkit is this? I can't figure out why it says Arick on the top.

















  • #2
    It's an ADA headkit.

    It just has Arick lasered on it.
    sigpic

    My GoPed Build: http://goo.gl/0oYHVj

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    • #3








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      • #4


        I believe this is a new carb, is it the model I should be using? Additional Image



        These are all the gaskets I had. I think most are old and need to be replaced. I'm assuming the "GP460 Gasket Set" on DDM is what I need. Or should I get these steel reinforced gaskets? or make my own gaskets using Permatex red silicone high-temp gasket maker?



        I believe this is 0.005" and it was used previously (pic of the other side). Is there benefit to getting a new one or may I reuse this? I read previously I don't need to use any of the gasket sealer around this particular gasket, is this standard practice?
        Last edited by StreetSurfer; 07-15-2015, 06:40 PM.

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        • #5


          Additional image of same view








          More light on the ring around the top of piston. It's a little loose, is it supposed to be tightly sealed to the groove in the piston?



          I didn't open the crank case up because I think it's going to be more trouble than it's worth with all the piston rings/c-clips and it doesn't seem to be worn out.

          Comment


          • #6
            Always use new gaskets when rebuilding an engine, always replace gaskets after taking an engine apart, even if you recently installed them. (you might not get a proper seal if you use them again). Id replace them all. Itll save you time and money.

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            • #7
              Pic of the outside of the crank case. I think it looks fine on cursory inspection.





              Clutch shoe assembly looks good. I have some clutch saver springs, worth installing?



              Here's the other half. Seems okay to me. I don't have a flywheel puller tool.

              Oh what the heck...




              Don't think I need to replace the front sprocket..



              Clutch bell looks alright (that's a pice of dirt on the bottom).

              U-bolt nuts need replacement.

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              • #8


                I think the disc brake rotor bolts were rubbing the inside of the mad dog adapter due to improper spacing, cause the wear pictured, but I don't think it would affect it's function?




                Not sure why the chain wore grooves into the chain protector but I don't think it needs replacement.



                Jetpro Rhino without cracks



                Is this the correct exhaust gasket for Jetpro Rhino or should I use the gasket that comes in the GP460 gasket kit referenced above ?



                Can I sand this deck down and apply grip tape to refurbish it? The hardware looks like it does need replacement.



                In general, can I apply some sort of cleaner to refurbish rusted bolts before I put them back on, or do I need to get new bolts altogether (can get expensive....).



                Do cables need replacement if they start fraying, or is there a way to salvage this?

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                • #9


                  Frame pic. Did not disassemble the pole or front end as they seem to be functioning well.



                  This is my workspace. My balcony is my "garage."

                  Spare parts I have to work with:







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                  • #10
                    I'm planning on using a 1/4" torque wrench to torque all bolts to specification and then red loctite them into place. I also have a drill and an impact wrench on the way. In addition to that, here are the other tools I'm working with:





                    The basics



                    Dremel 4000 kit

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                    • #11
                      Even if the front end feels good I would disassemble, and repack the headset and bearings with quality grease.

                      Use all new gaskets like said before. For the deck a heat gun works well to help remove the grip tape along with a putty knife.

                      Fully grip or regrip depending on taste. The deck bolts are fine just need to be cleaned.

                      Cables are pretty inexpensive, replacing worn or frayed cables is a good idea.
                      Elliot Laurance
                      Coast Ped, Goped Superstore, ADA
                      World Domination 2003-2004

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by dfl18 View Post
                        Even if the front end feels good I would disassemble, and repack the headset and bearings with quality grease.

                        Use all new gaskets like said before. For the deck a heat gun works well to help remove the grip tape along with a putty knife.

                        Fully grip or regrip depending on taste. The deck bolts are fine just need to be cleaned.

                        Cables are pretty inexpensive, replacing worn or frayed cables is a good idea.
                        Thanks for this advice, using all new gaskets sounds like a good idea. Just a couple more follow-up questions:
                        • For the deck bolts, is there a product you recommend to remove the rust?
                        • What type of grease should I use to repack the headset and bearings? I have PJ-1 chain lube but I imagine I need something more viscous/permanent.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by StreetSurfer View Post
                          Thanks for this advice, using all new gaskets sounds like a good idea. Just a couple more follow-up questions:
                          • For the deck bolts, is there a product you recommend to remove the rust?
                          To answer my own question, the following methods can remove rust:
                          Last edited by StreetSurfer; 07-16-2015, 09:58 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Any rusty bolts should come up fine with a wire brush..
                            And a spray of lacquer to reseal the metal from further rust..
                            The deck can be sanded down to good effect, but use the rest of the tin of lacquer to seal the wood.
                            ... J.
                            There is nothing that cannot be fixed with a good cup of Tea.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Looks to be coming along nicely.
                              The vinegar rust removal is great, I pick up old high quality iron skillets
                              Once in awhile at the dump and strip them in 1-2 days down to bare
                              Metal by just soaking in a sled in straight vinegar.then season . have a couple early 1900 ones that are awesome and would have been lost.

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