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Trying to restore two Go-Peds

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  • Trying to restore two Go-Peds

    I have two completely original California Go-Peds, with Geo-Sport stickers. They appear identical except for color (red vs blue) and a minor difference in the air filter housings. Both have the GZ25N14 engines, with Walbro WYA-5 carbs. Both have the Mach 12 plastic rims with 2.5 x 6 solid tires. Both have side pull brakes on the front wheel. and a foot activated friction pad on the rear wheel. Both have the Microshift 'clutch' control on the left side of the t-bar, which was completely inoperative. However, given the rust on the motor mount and spring assembly that did not surprise me. It looks like it has been YEARS since that motor moved at all. The rear wheels did not turn at all, but it was unclear if freeing up the motor pivot point would cure that or if the wheel bearings were shot. Neither ran, but I decided the best approach was to concentrate on ONE of them and leave the other as a reference for reassembly. First order was the engine which seemed to be OK, except for the lack of fuels lines and the carb primer bulb being cracked. I dip tanked the carb and put a rebuild kit in it and jury rigged some fuel lines and IT STARTED! Of course, it didn't run well, but IT STARTED! I tinkered with the carb but the reality is there isn't much that I could to to make that much of a difference in running so I ordered a new carb. Problem solved- starts with first or second pull and runs well. I removed the motor and mount with the motor spring and cleaned everything, painted what needed to be painted and even MIG welded some rust-through holes in the bottom of the frame while I waited on parts. I ordered cables, new engine mount springs, wheel bearings and a few other assorted parts. All parts were obtained from Dave's Discount Motors and I had spoken with "Brad" when I needed help in identifying specific parts.

    Reassembly went well, especially since I had one machine that was untouched to be able to use for comparison to make sure I had it right. The first issue I have with the reassembly is with the engine mount spring. Brad stated I need the Bigfoot spring, part number "hh135" and at first glance it seems right. However, in reality it is 'backwards' from the original. The bent part that hooks over the engine mount on the original sping points to the left (looking from the rear of the machine) while the new part points to the right. There is no way this is going to work.

    The second problem is with the Microshift mechanism. I successfully disassembled that entire mechanism to install a new cable, only to realize I probably could have just fished the new cable through the housing. I will try that on the second machine. I simply cannot figure out how this assembly is supposed work. It has three detented positions, labelled "1, 2, 3". the cable is longest at position 1 and gets shorter as it is moved to positions 2 and 3. That cable is attached to the motor mount which is forced rearward by the force of the engine mount spring. At position 1 (longest cable length) the drive spindle is in firmest contact with the rear wheel. As the control is rotated to position 2, the shortened cable pulls the engine forward, increasing the clearance between the drive spindle and the wheel. At position 3, the drive spindle is not contacting the wheel at all. This seems 'backward' to me or at least the labeling of 1, 2, 3 do not make sense. I would think that position 1 would be the least amount of engagement between the drive spindle and the rear wheel and that engagement would get stronger as the cable is moved to positions 2 and 3 - think first gear, second gear, third gear. Also. the amount of force required to move from 1 to 2 to 3 is pretty high as you have to overcome the tension of the big engine mount spring. It definitely works as I was able to haul my 200 lb self up and down the driveway by 'feathering' that control until I got it up to speed with the throttle held wide open. However, I feel this is NOT the way it was intended. I also need a new drive spindle as the abrasive grip on it basically disintegrated during the maiden voyage yesterday. That ended my experimenting.

    Can anyone tell me what the 'correct' spring might be for these machines and how that Microshift device is supposed to work? I can upload pictures if you tell me what pictures might help. I did place a call back to Dave's and hopefully I will hear back from Brad.

    I am really happy with the progress made so far and look forward to getting both machines fully operational. These are pretty neat machines!


  • #2
    The geo sport was my first Goped, so it holds a nostalgic place for me. The shifter mechanism is retrofitted from a bike so the numbers don’t make sense. Regarding the spring, is yours missing? you may have to custom fab something or contact Goped directly.

    The geos were the least popular of the gas gopeds due to lack of motor options, some replacement parts are not available anymore.
    Last edited by dsport; 04-26-2020, 06:47 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by dsport View Post
      The geo sport was my first Goped, so it holds a nostalgic place for me. The shifter mechanism is retrofitted from a bike so the numbers don’t make sense. Regarding the spring, is yours missing? you may have to custom fab something or contact Goped directly.

      The geos were the least popular of the gas gopeds due to lack of motor options, some replacement parts are not available anymore.
      dsport- thanks for the reply. The spring is not missing and at least on the one I have worked on, it still has some ‘spring’ left in it. However, I don’t know how much tension it is supposed to exert on the drive spindle/tire. Since I had the machine completely apart and the spring appears pretty rusted, I thought I would just replace it.

      The more I dig into these two machines, the more confused I become about exactly what they model they are. As I stated, the sticker on the t-bar tube says “GEO SPORT”. After describing what I needed to Brad at Dave’s Discount Motors he stated I have a Bigfoot. As I look at various other sources to include the exploded parts drawings on moped-scooter-tuning.de and Dave’s, I am not sure it is a Bigfoot. It looks like the Bigfoot had the treaded air filled tires and the engine mounts on the left. The Bigfoot is listed as having the Mad dog front dish brake, while these have side pull calipers. Mine has the solid tires and the engine mounts on the right. The spring that Brad said would be the replacement would absolutely work if the motor was reversed, but that is not possible. The t-bar mounted clutch assembly looks like the one shown on the Bigfoot drawing, and the spec sheet I located on line says the Bigfoot is the only one with a “direct drive manual clutch’ and the only model with the foot operated friction pad for the rear brake, but again, the motor is mounted on the wrong side on these two. I can not locate an exploded parts drawing for the Geo Sport, only for the Sport model so I can’t compare it to what I have.

      The three position detent in the clutch is really curious. You stated it is retrofitted from a bike, but to the best of my knowledge these machines are completely stock from the way they were purchased. They came from the same family and were purchased at the same time. I am pretty confident they were not modified by the owners.

      It’s been ‘fun’ up to this point. I would much rather spend my time wrenching than researching!

      Comment


      • #4
        Sports (geo and standard) have solid tires
        bigfoots (geo and standard) have 10” air tires

        geos (geo sport, geo xped, and geo bigfoot) use the GZN motors which are mounted on the right.

        The clickshift deal is a geo thing only. And when I say retrofitted, I mean retrofitted from the Goped factory.

        Last edited by dsport; 04-27-2020, 11:09 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by dsport View Post
          Sports (geo and standard) have solid tires
          bigfoots (geo and standard) have 10” air tires

          geos (geo sport, geo xped, and geo bigfoot) use the GZN motors which are mounted on the right.

          The clickshift deal is a geo thing only. And when I say retrofitted, I mean retrofitted from the Goped factory.
          dsport- very informative post which really helped me out. Thank you! I have not been able to track down the correct engine mount spring and really do not even know if I really NEED it since I don’t know how much tension there should be. I just finished getting the drive spindle off the motor shaft in order to replace it, so I continue to make some progress. I need to order the spindles. I called Go-Ped but they are closed on Mondays. I called Dave’s again to speak with Brad but the call went to voice mail. I will try them again later today.

          Do you think the Microshift is something worth continuing to fool with or just scrap it for a simpler continuously variable clutch control lever? It’s tough trying to sort this machine out with so little written documentation available. Posts like yours have been very helpful!

          Comment


          • #6
            Add pictures of your work!
            Last edited by ESR_RSE; 04-27-2020, 06:10 PM.

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            • #7
              Brad from DDM Racing called me back. He confirmed I have the Geo Sport model and that the engine spring he originally recommended was incorrect for the Geo Sport. He also confirmed DDM does not have the correct spring, but was gracious enough to locate the correct spring on the Go-ped.com web site. I ordered two new springs from them and other parts from DDM. We discussed the functionality of the Microshift clutch and confirmed what dsport already told me. For now, I will stay with what is on the machines. I guess I had not mentioned that I am doing this work for a neighbor, not myself. My goal is to give him two fully functional machines back at the least amount of cost. With the parts I ordered today, I am right around $225.00 for both machines. I think that is VERY reasonable given the initial condition of the machines. If he had to pay me for my actual wrench time it would be getting expensive - I have close to 15 hours so far, with probably 3 of those hours working on the carb alone - only to scrap it for a new one. Cleaning the junk off, Wire wheeling all of the rust, welding the holes, priming, painting, etc has easily consumed the rest and I have not really started on the second machine yet! I expect that one to go much quicker now that I have experience! If I kept track of my research time I could easily add another 5 hours.

              I can understand the allure of these machines after working on this one and riding it briefly. If these were mine, I would be looking at immediately upgrading to something with air tires, real brakes, more HP, etc. My “go to” fun ride is my 2016 BMW K1600 GTL. It is my primary transportation for the spring, summer and fall. My winter ride is a Mercedes Benz SLK350. I like performance, and fun!

              Comment


              • #8
                Progress report. I will be posting some pictures when I am finally done...today I reassembled the second GEO Sport. This one needed a complete strip down to the frame for a fair bit of welding to repair the rust through holes. The other frame had a couple smaller holes. This one was in far worse shape and I wasn’t sure I was going to be able to repair some of the holes without a surface patch or three. Every time I tried to build up some solid metal using the MIG welder, the holes just got bigger. After a lot of welding, even more grinding and a bunch of swearing, I got it. After priming and painting, the frame was ‘good enough’ and I was able to put it all back together. The motor mount and spring assembly posed the biggest problem on both frames. There is just no way to hold the spring and Belleville washers in place on the mount, while trying to overcome the spring tension and position the mount between the tabs on the frame while trying to insert the bolt. Easily a job requiring four hands with room for only one. The new paint on the frame took a beating from the end of the spring but I finally was able to align things correctly and persuade the bolt into place. The Microshift mechanism on this machine works slightly better than the other one but they are both marginal at best. I cannot reliably get the drive spindle to separate from the rear wheel or if I do, I then cannot get enough tension on the drive spindle and the engine revs due to slippage. It is obvious to me that these mechanisms need to be replaced with something simpler and more reliable. I am open to any suggestions from previous owners who may have overcome this problem. Solving this is the last thing to be done before I hand them back to the owner. While fiddling with the first machine last evening he came over and I had him take it for a spin through the neighborhood. He was thrilled with how it came out, except for the clutch, of course. I will not give these back until I get that sorted out...it is too much of a safely issue! Help, please!

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you can get a piece of copper under the hole while welding that should help. Or sounds like you have too much amperage selected if blowing holes in the frame.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ESR_RSE View Post
                    If you can get a piece of copper under the hole while welding that should help. Or sounds like you have too much amperage selected if blowing holes in the frame.
                    The problem was that the metal had become so thin from rusting from the inside that even with the mig welder at the lowest setting it would just blow out the hole bigger. Since I was welding the tubular frame, there was no way to get a backing piece inside.. I have used copper as a heat sink on other jobs. That just wasn’t possible on this one. I ended up beginning the repair well back from the hole and worked my way toward and then around the hole to build up something solid. Eventually, I was able to close the hole and grind things back to shape. I could have cut out the really rusted area and welded a patch in or just welded a patch on top of the ‘bad’ area. I am pretty new to welding - having completed an introductory course at the local vo-tech night school back in Dec, and I am on really good terms with the instructor. As a last resort I would have taken the frame to him for help.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yikes. Not a good sign if the frame is that thin. Good work though. There are some other good products out there that you can spread around (no onto) the area to dissipate heat while trying to weld patches with a MIG.

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