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20 year old Bigfoot restoration project

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  • 20 year old Bigfoot restoration project

    I had a Super Bigfoot 20 years ago and loved everything about it. Life happened and sold it 5 years later.

    Today I got the chance to pick up a 2000 Bigfoot model with a bunch of aftermarket parts on it in non running condition. The prior owner claimed it ran last year, I plan on refinishing it, completely. Then enjoying the life out of it.

    From first pass it looks like it needs a pull starter, front brake cable, air filter and good cleaning. I’m also unsure what the unplugged wires coming from the motor and throttle cable are.

    I have brought dirt bikes back to life before but this is my first time truly working on a goped.

    I would appreciate any insights or ideas from those that have done it before I jump in.

    it looks like DDM racing and eBay both have tons of parts for these.

    cheers
    Bob

  • #2
    Yeah, that looks like the bullet proof G23LH most BFs had from the factory. Thing looks in very nice condition. Shouldn't take much to get going. What are your expectations for the complete ride? How much do you want to spend on it?
    MY BF upgrades:
    Sikk Pipe w/ silencer - $90
    Walbro 668 Carb - $45
    Maddog Brake upgrade - $85
    CIDLI front suspension kit - $150
    DDM Blue billet aluminized intake filter - $35
    54mm Centrifugal clutch - $80
    rocket key - $5
    .750 spindle - $20

    I really like your race pole, I want one of those on mine, but its another $150ish. I need to buy the 3rd bearing and lock out ( another $100). So it all depends on what your looking for. Currently, I am 190lbs and the BF runs me about 25-35 mph depending on the road. I also have a trail ripper that I have modded that moves me around at 45 mph.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by JLRod View Post
      Yeah, that looks like the bullet proof G23LH most BFs had from the factory. Thing looks in very nice condition. Shouldn't take much to get going. What are your expectations for the complete ride? How much do you want to spend on it?
      MY BF upgrades:
      Sikk Pipe w/ silencer - $90
      Walbro 668 Carb - $45
      Maddog Brake upgrade - $85
      CIDLI front suspension kit - $150
      DDM Blue billet aluminized intake filter - $35
      54mm Centrifugal clutch - $80
      rocket key - $5
      .750 spindle - $20

      I really like your race pole, I want one of those on mine, but its another $150ish. I need to buy the 3rd bearing and lock out ( another $100). So it all depends on what your looking for. Currently, I am 190lbs and the BF runs me about 25-35 mph depending on the road. I also have a trail ripper that I have modded that moves me around at 45 mph.
      Thanks man. I ordered parts from DDM and Go-Ped today for the pull starter, air box, brake cable, and other stuff. I also picked up a 1.5L large gas tank for it to try and extend the fuel range a bit.

      I plan to get it running well in stock form first. Then want to play with a big bore kit. Will see if I get bored and want to get a 290 and a pipe.

      Don't want to dump tons of $ into it, but would like to get it operational and tuned up first, then see what upgrades I want to do.

      The lockdown looks interesting, is the current clutch/cable set up that bad?

      By the way - I took these photos after wiping it down with WD40 and shop towels for about 2 hours lol. I had to wire brush rush off of a lot of places but it is slowly cleaning up.

      What is the rocket key?

      Comment


      • #4
        Ok, so the rocket key is just a replacement for the flywheel key that advances timing. Cheap 2-3 mph and acceleration part.

        Cable Clutch:
        After riding the BF around for a while, the cable (for me) just became a nuisance. To "fix" it, there are two roads, centrifugal clutch w/ lockdown and no-CF clutch w/ lockdown.

        1. CF clutch w/ lockdown will allow you to idle without lifting the motor, like chain driven Peds.

        2. No-CF clutch w/ lockdown will allow you to push start your Ped like the hard tire peds do, i.e. the GoPed sport.

        3. Keep it original.

        The "lockdown" mentioned in both, removes the cable and permanently binds the spindle to the tire. I prefer number one, others may say to go number 2 bc you lose power adding a CF clutch. Im not a fan of push starting. Just preference.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by JLRod View Post
          Ok, so the rocket key is just a replacement for the flywheel key that advances timing. Cheap 2-3 mph and acceleration part.

          Cable Clutch:
          After riding the BF around for a while, the cable (for me) just became a nuisance. To "fix" it, there are two roads, centrifugal clutch w/ lockdown and no-CF clutch w/ lockdown.

          1. CF clutch w/ lockdown will allow you to idle without lifting the motor, like chain driven Peds.

          2. No-CF clutch w/ lockdown will allow you to push start your Ped like the hard tire peds do, i.e. the GoPed sport.

          3. Keep it original.

          The "lockdown" mentioned in both, removes the cable and permanently binds the spindle to the tire. I prefer number one, others may say to go number 2 bc you lose power adding a CF clutch. Im not a fan of push starting. Just preference.
          Makes sense... thanks for the info. I am going to order the rocket key and do more research on the lockdown options.

          Have you explored any big bore kits or bigger motors?

          The one below looks fun, obviously still need to get it started and research more options

          http://www.davesmotors.com/esp-earth...combo-kit-4-hp

          Comment


          • #6
            I haven't thought about going big bore for one reason. The G23LH stock is one of the most reliable motors you can have. So for me, I would rather keep the LH stock, as a back up, and replace with a G290 for my BF.
            However, since my wife and son are the primary riders of my BF, I just try to keep it clean and running well for them. I might motor swap this xmas, so they can keep up with me. I personally have fell in love with the Trail Ripper and throw way too much cash at it.

            Daves motors, ADA racing, and GoPed.com should be the only websites you should purchase from, unless you really know who you are dealing with. As for exhaust, one of the best you can buy is made by JetPro, another website. But JetPro, will always have a long wait. some of their pipes are taking 4-8 weeks before shipping. I scored a Rhino from them for my GTR, and I am happy I waited.

            Not sure why others haven't posted, usually a few people come on and give more advice than this.

            Good luck, also if you have facebook, GoPedNation and Goped 'Merica are a couple of good groups with decent advice coming from them.

            Comment


            • #7
              Have spent a bunch more time cleaning the ped, then plan to install new gas tank, fresh fuel lines, brake line, throttle cable and rebuild the carb.

              I've already taken the Walbro WYJ 138 apart, cleaned everything, and waiting for the carb rebuild kit to arrive from DDM this weekend with fresh gaskets.

              Any tips on carb settings / tuning?

              Any other tips or tricks on bringing ole' biggie back to life? I have a new spark plug coming this weekend as well.

              Cheers
              Bob

              Comment


              • #8
                Couple notes.

                there were 2 versions of carbs produced for the LH barrel carb. permanently set, and tunable, with the latter being more rare. If you have a tunable version you have gold. you’ll get a solid 2mph-3mph increase on the LH from a tunable carb because the untunaable version is designed to run super rich.

                Secondly if your carb is having issues, rebuild kits rarely ever solve the problem due to the problem being internal within the tiny cross drilling and Venturi’s of the body of the carb. That being said, the barrel carbs are pretty reliable and having new gaskets is never a bad thing.

                next, the engine lock down is alright, but it’s more of a preference thing on the LH. Personally I like the ability to idle, so I would choose the stock setup. If you fit a bigger motor I’d probably step up to lock down at that point since you’ll have issues with spindle slip. keep in mind ,the engine lift feature on the Bigfoot’s was harder/more expensive to engineer than a lock down. If Goped took the cheap route, they would’ve fitted a lock down front the start. There is also a clutch option which can be fitted in conjunction with the lock down, this is nice as you keep the idle feature. but you start to loose the compactness and simplicity of the OG bigfoot at this point.

                motor upgrades I’d go with a zenoah 260/290 head/piston (aka big bore) or straight to a G320/340 engine with clutch, and lock down, pipe, and biggest spindle available. Speeds will be close to the following stock LH at ~20mph, big bore ~30 (depending on spindle size ) and ~40mph for the G320 /340.
                *******Pedding since '02********

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by dsport View Post
                  Couple notes.

                  Very helpful - thank you.

                  The carb on the Biggie is a Walbro WYJ138 - it has a setting screw on the top that I understand is fuel/air.

                  Makes sense on leaving the stock setup with the LH and upgrading to a lockdown if/when a motor swap would happen.

                  At this point, I just want to get it purring and cruise around my neighborhood. I am a natural tinkerer and love working on things, so doubt it will stay in a stock condition for long anyhow.



                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BBQBob View Post

                    Very helpful - thank you.

                    The carb on the Biggie is a Walbro WYJ138 - it has a setting screw on the top that I understand is fuel/air.

                    Makes sense on leaving the stock setup with the LH and upgrading to a lockdown if/when a motor swap would happen.

                    At this point, I just want to get it purring and cruise around my neighborhood. I am a natural tinkerer and love working on things, so doubt it will stay in a stock condition for long anyhow.
                    No worries, That’s the awesome part about these, like a grown up LEGO set.
                    *******Pedding since '02********

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Can you experts please help me set expectations here --

                      I want to get up and cruising on this bigfoot soon, still waiting for some more parts from DDM.

                      For those with experience, how will the spindle drive biggie with OG clutch set up work on dirt trails? Not extreme offroad, but picturing bringing it with me to the dirt bike trails I ride for a friend to cruise around and play a bit on. Not rock crawling, but hard pack dirt cruising and goofing around.

                      Will the current OG biggie set up work OK? I welcome your thoughts.

                      I'm now $300 into this resoration and do not want to drop tons of money on this toy. If I get serious about it - I would probably pick up a trail ripper or something more appropriate for the task. This is not my preferred route.

                      Thanks for all the help so far guys.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        It’ll work for off-road, probably better with a lock down, but not great for the engine. By buddy’s and I used to take 50s/110s and scooters off-road all the time. We had a big trail system out behind our neighborhood. It was a blast. Heck, we’d take the sports off-road too.

                        The standard bigfoots with movable engines never worked as well and the one with actual clutch’s tho. I’d probably consider a lock down and maybe even a bolt on clutch clutch.

                        nice thing about the clutch you won’t end up with a bent crank. If you take your bigfoot off-road as is, or even with a lock down you’ll almost surely end up with a bent crank.
                        *******Pedding since '02********

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BBQBob View Post
                          Can you experts please help me set expectations here --

                          I want to get up and cruising on this bigfoot soon, still waiting for some more parts from DDM.

                          For those with experience, how will the spindle drive biggie with OG clutch set up work on dirt trails? Not extreme offroad, but picturing bringing it with me to the dirt bike trails I ride for a friend to cruise around and play a bit on. Not rock crawling, but hard pack dirt cruising and goofing around.

                          Will the current OG biggie set up work OK? I welcome your thoughts.

                          I'm now $300 into this resoration and do not want to drop tons of money on this toy. If I get serious about it - I would probably pick up a trail ripper or something more appropriate for the task. This is not my preferred route.

                          Thanks for all the help so far guys.
                          We used to take my buddy’s super bigfoot to the local motocross track (after hours) all the time. That thing would rip! I agree with dsport tho, you’d probably want a lock down, maybe see how it feels as is and make the decision from there. FYI, ADA used to make lock downs with an integrated 3rd bearing support (not sure about anymore).
                          Last edited by knakib1; 10-14-2020, 08:33 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            -- UPDATE --

                            I got the new parts installed and got the ole' girl to run. Cleaned the carb, replaced the gaskets, fuel lines/tank, brake cable, throttle cable, and more.

                            The engine runs strong and does not seem to have any issues. Starts right up and revs strong when not attached to tire.

                            Now when I got to ride it - the power is not delivering to the tire sufficiently. I can still scoot along - s l o w l y - but the spindle slips and I hear the engine rev up while not really moving. Plus there is not much torque or top end - at all. I'm a 175lb adult.

                            The motor mount spring still has some tension but I'm guessing maybe not enough? Also the spindle could be better, it is smooth in some parts.

                            My assumption is to replace aforementioned parts (starting with spindle then motor mount spring) and see how it performs. Then the tires.

                            Anyone got any ideas?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Bob, the cable needs to be loosened. The object of the game is to put just enough pressure on the tire that,
                              a. The spindle doesńt slip,
                              b. The spindle doesn’t eat into the tire.
                              Its a careful balance. When i adjust it, i inflate the tire to 30 psi, Then lower the spindle on to the tire where there is a little slip. Then air the tire up to 38 or 40 psi. Ride the ped, if you smell tire, let air out until you dońt experience slip or tire burn.

                              You will get better at it. The first few times i adjusted it, i went through two tires before i got it just right. I got lucky and DDM had tires on sale, so i bought like 5 of them.

                              Comment

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