How To: ☼ - GoPed Lights - Practical DIY GoPed Lighting System

[GopedLights]

After deciding to put lights on the GoPed, I began searching for solutions.

Most headlights looked too small, or too frail and weak.

I wanted a headlight that would get someones attention, Now!

The headlight also needed to have 'Tank Like' durability.

The search for the right lights lasted about 1 year.

The results of the build, and a review of the parts suppliers are presented over the next several posts...

Custom GoPed Lighting System:









More to come. .

[GopedLights]

This is an 18 Watt Led Work-light.

This light is very bright, even in daylight.

12 - 24 Volts Input

This light draws 900 milliamps at 12 Volts

This light is meant to be mounted on a tractor.

It's assembled in China. But has been working very well for two years.



The light comes with the mounting bracket and bracket hardware.

With slight modification, this light mounts solid on the GoPed.

Once tightened down, this light never moves! And I'm all over the place on my GoPed.

The light must be bought as a pair.
$60 + Free Shipping for a pair of these lights.



Here are some shots of the bracket.

I went to Ace Hardware on bought a slightly longer neck bolt to hold the bracket.



Notice the washer used to hold the mounting bracket. It's a regular washer with 'snipped' ends.



The bottom bolt is slightly longer than the top bolt, but it is still almost too short.
I pushed the limits by adding the electric horn mounting bracket in.





So Far, Ive been over sidewalks, rough roads, mountains, etc. and this light still does not move once it's tightened down.

It's pretty solid, and apparently well made.

I'm sure I've gone over 1000 miles with this light, and had it lit for 200 of those miles. The light still lights perfect after all that road hammering.

This LED light barely gets warm, even when constantly powered by 14.8 volts.

Don't pay more that $60 + Free Shipping for a pair of these lights. ( many chinese prices will fool you )



This is a well made TailLight for a Baja - Bright LEDs encased in a chrome metal shell.



This TailLight Comes with a mount made to mount through the fender.

I drilled a hole in the rear fender, shrink wrapped the wires, and mounted the light.

I added my own rubber washer as well, cut from thicker dish-washing gloves.

Here's a shot under the fender



This TailLight is rated to run on 12 Volts

Cost = $30 + Shipping

It has three wires: Running Light, Brake Light, and Ground



With the "running light" only wire connected, this taillight draws 100 milliamps at 12 volts.

Only the TailLight Running Light Wire is hooked up. The higher current Brake Light wire is not connected.

This is because this GoPed Electrical System Runs on 14.8 Volts.

I have not tested the amperage draw at 14.8 volts, but I am sure that you can do the math and get a pretty close answer.

( Beware of cheaper imitations on ebay with fewer LEDs )

Continued . .

[GopedLights]

So far, the TailLight Mount has never come loose. Over 1000 miles.

And running it at 14.8 Volts using only the "running lights" wire has not damaged this Taillight.

This Tail-light does not get warm powered by 14.8 volts continuously, yet is plenty bright, even for daytime.

More to Come . .

[GopedLights]

The horn is a standard Wolo Mini But Loud 12 volt horn.



It seems to perform well with no damage powered with the 14.8 volt system.

The entire electrical system is powered by a Tunigy 5000mAh 4S 20C Lipo Battery Pack - 14.8v



I went to Radio Shack and picked up this battery box.

The battery barely fits into this box.
I put some foam above and below inside the box to cushion the battery.

Then I had to cut a small hole in the side of the box for the wires.

I used a rubber-band as a gasket when sealing and screwing down the box lid.



Using these connectors - ( read the reviews about these connectors, they work well, but need a mini blow torch to solder them )



With this switch for headlights and horn:



This Charger:



The battery will run the lights for around 2 hours before battery drops below 80% capacity.

( See charging chart in next post )





This wall charger is 12 volts and 1.25 amps.

Since I am only slow charging this Lipo, it works perfect, only getting slightly warm.





Continued . .

[GopedLights]

Here are the prices for the Battery and Charger.

The Battery from HobbyKing Costs $35.00 + shipping



The Turnigy Charger from HobbyKing Costs $24.00 + shipping



Charging Procedures:



Note the max discharge voltage of this battery, which is: 15.44 V

Luckily, I have never taken my battery down past 15.3 Volts



Regarding the Turnigy ACCUCEL-6 Charger:

This charger is somewhat natural to operate, but it can be confusing too.

Read the Manual Here:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uploads/ACCUCEL_manual%282%29.pdf

This charger works great slow charging the Goped lighting system, and as a bonus, it also charges my 'Beast Box e-cigarette' Lipo batteries.

I would also suggest you read what others on the HobbyKing forum say about the charger.
YouTube also has many instructional videos for this charger.

This charger does not come with a power supply. I sniffed out a cheap a 12V, 1.25Ah wall power supply to slow charge the battery at .5Ah



So far, I have not found the setting that turns off the charger when a certain voltage is hit. Perhaps they kept it out on purpose, so we are forced to babysit the voltage.

This charger 'will' stop charging when the max charge voltage has been reached, I just wish it let me program it to stop charging at 'almost' max charge.

The charger also has a timer on it, the default cut-off time is 90 minutes.

However, I always babysit the voltage.

Overcharging a Lipo Battery, by even 1 volt over the max charge, can damage the battery. So, by letting the charger charge the pack to max voltage, one of the cells could end up with a higher voltage. Not good for the pack.
Then, continued overcharging could explode the battery.

Learn how to 'balance' the cells in the pack every once in a while.

Big Moral of Post: Babysit the Charging LiPo Battery

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________________

Storing the LiPo battery:



They lose charge pretty quick if stored.
After a month, the voltage will drop.

For storage, you must start out with the battery charged to storage voltage. Then check the voltage & charge back to storage voltage every month.

It would help if the battery was removed from the GoPed, then placed into a zip-lock baggie. Squeeze the air out of the bag, seal it, then put into the fridge.

Every month, remove the battery from the fridge and zip-lock bag.
Let battery warm up to room temperature 2 hours, then check the voltage and charge back to storage voltage.

I like a storage voltage of around 16.25v for this 4S battery.

Next: Battery Mounting & Diagrams . .

[pedguy]

Nice write up! The battery is under the deck?

Also I would strongly advise against storing that battery in your house if at all possible. Definitely not in a sandwich bag in the fridge! It needs to be stored in a lithium battery storage bag in the garage.

If in person you ever saw one of those batteries let go when you didn't expect it, it would change the way you think about storing them forever.

[fri_1986]

Dude this is an awesome DIY!

[GopedLights]

At first, I was not sure if this battery mounting design would deliver.

But it does deliver, and has been holding solid for 1000 miles.

First, I went to HomeDepot and got some zip ties.

2 Large Over-sized White zip ties,
and a pack of the standard Black zip ties.

The 2 Over-sized White zip ties go around the battery box and around the GoPed's frame. ( they are black in the pics because I covered them with electrical tape )

Then, three of the standard black zip ties, with extensions, go under the box and around the board mounting posts as shown.



In the photo below, on the left, you can see an extra connector used for a charging port:



The ties "wanted" to live this way:







Here is a shot of the battery cable & connection:



The connector tucks away perfectly into the slot:



Here is the circuit diagram:



And here is a link to the live circuit simulator:
( you must accept the Java prompt - then maximize the simulator page )

http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+...2B+Positive%0A

______________________________ ___________________

The cables on the left had to be wrapped with electrical tape, or they became caught in the rotating U-Shaped clamp:



The Switch has worked flawlessly.

The red switch turns on the lights, and the grey momentary switch is for the horn.



More to Come . .

[GopedLights]

Nice write up! The battery is under the deck?

Also I would strongly advise against storing that battery in your house if at all possible. .

Yes, I have seen them go. But for the most part I feel pretty comfortable around the battery as long as it it not on the charger.
This battery is made for RC vehicles, and is designed for fast discharge.
The way it is used in this design, the battery is barely stressed.

But I do see your point of not taking extra chances.

Thank you for your input.

[GopedLights]

Dude this is an awesome DIY!

Thank you.

I did it because my Goped gives back much pleasure.

Please feel free to replicate the design.

If you can improve upon it. Awesome! Then please share.

[GopedLights]

One thing this GoPed Lighting system needs is a 24 V / 5 AMP Fuse.



I always disconnect the battery when the GoPed is at home, but it still needs a fuse while operating.

The fuse will be placed in-line, on the positive side of the wire, near the battery.

[GopedLights]

Of Course, I take my GoPed EVERYWHERE:

[GopedLights]

Happy Trails!

[gideeup]

You have inspired me.

Excellent thread !

[cky_ej29]

I did something similar with a $10 light bar, a $20 6x18650 12v box, and 2 $5 handlebar mounts.

This light bar allows mounting where the bar pad would go, so it doesnt stick out or take up extra space.